Koh Tarutao

After having spent almost 2 weeks in
Kho Phangan, Phuket and Koh Phi Phi, we wanted to once again get away frohm the tourist traps and spend some time in a more secluded island.
From our research, Koh Tarutao was what we were looking for.

As part of the Tarutao National Marine
Park, which consists of 51 islands of which Koh Tarutao is the largest, the island is a true sanctuary for marine and land wildlife.
Accommodations on the island  are limited.  The park authority does offer bungalows and campsites for overnight stays.  The accommodations are basic but comfortable, only offer cold water and electricity to power lights and fans is available only between 6 PM and 10 PM.  The park authority has a restaurant that offers a limited menu but with tasty options.

Unfortunately, indoor activities are non-existent as we found out the first day we arrived and it was raining.  If you plan to come to Tarutao make sure to have a deck of playing cards, a few good books and a few Sudoku puzzles with you just in case you run into some bad weather.

Thankfully, the weather cleared the following day and we were able to enjoy some of what the island has to offer.  First, we visited the Crocodile Cave.  The cave can be reached by boat (about 15 minutes) and is a huge cave with stalactite and stalagmite formations.  The cave does not have any crocodiles anymore but does have thousands of bats.  As we took a small raft into the cave, we passed and woke some of the bats that hung upside-down above on the cave walls.  After docking the raft, our non-English speaking boat driver led us by foot into the cave.  The formations were beautiful but similar to any other formations that you would see in such caves.  What was different was that we were lead through some questionable passages.  The visit turned out to be a real hike that often required us to be on all fours to climb some of the muddy ascents.  We all came out unscathed but very muddy.

The following day we took a hike to visit a few of the other ‘Ao’ (beaches) on the island.  A hike of 8 km took us to Ao Jak, Ao Molae and Ao Son.  The beaches were beautiful and completely empty.  Not a soul!  But we enjoyed the trek getting there even more.  As we walked, we came within feet of monkeys and even a two foot long lizard sun bathing on the path.  The jungle we were walking in was full of life.  Even when we were unable to see them, we could hear the different creatures all around us.

At Ao Son, a small jungle path led to the Lu Du waterfall.  According to the park authority, the 3 km trek from the beach to the waterfall takes 1 hour.  Having just finished lunch, we were energized for the 6 km return journey.  It was getting a bit late so we decided to arrange for a lift back to our bungalow after we finished the waterfall hike.  We agreed to meet a park ranger at 4.30 PM near Ao Son and he would drive us back. We left the beach at about 2:30 PM and started off at a good pace.  I was sure that we would make it to the falls well before one hour.  Was I ever wrong!  As it turns out, the path to the falls is only a quarter
‘path’ and three quarters ‘rock climbing’.  Most of our ‘walk’ was over wet rocks on the riverbed and we had a lot of difficulty finding some of the markers along the way.  After an hour and 10 minutes we were considering turning back or we would be late to meet up with the park ranger.  Luckily we continued and after the next bend in the river we saw the tiny waterfalls.  Sunset was about 2 hours away and the jungle’s thick canopy was already making it quite dark.  We quickly cooled ourselves in the waterfall and headed back.  We were determined to make the trip back in less than an hour.
Unfortunately, our wet feet and sandals made walking even more difficult than before.  Only 20 minutes into the return journey, we lost sight of the trail markers.  We were lost!  We headed down the river thinking that we would find a marker at some point but as it got darker we realized that we didn’t recognize the stretch of river we were on.  The rocks on the river bed were larger, harder to climb and fallen trees were blocking the way.  We decided that backtracking to the last marker that we had seen was the smartest option.  That was a wise choice.  We had missed one of the markers that led up from the river to a path higher up on the bank.  At this point, it was quickly getting dark and we started jogging!  We made it out at about
5 PM and luckily the park ranger was still waiting for us.
Exhausted, thirsty and grateful to be in the ranger’s truck, we headed back.

Unless you love nature and solitude this place is not for you.  After 9 PM when the restaurant shuts down, there is not much to do other than sit on your bungalow’s balcony and play cards or read a book.  Of course, any activities after 10 PM also require candles or flashlights!

But for nature lovers the island offers treks to see secluded beaches, waterfalls, various caves and a chance to see different types of wild animals including monkeys, wild pigs, tropical birds, reptiles, squirrels and many types of insects.  The ocean and jungle are your playground here! 

 

Details:

Park Name:  Mu Ko Turatao Marine
National Park
Getting There: Ferry or speedboat from
Pak Bara on the mainland (250/300 Baht)
Admissions Fee:  400 Baht for foreigners
Accommodations:  Camping (20 Baht), newly built bungalows (1600 Baht) and a few options in between