One Year Away

Penny

After having spent almost 2 weeks in
Kho Phangan, Phuket and Koh Phi Phi, we wanted to once again get away
frohm the tourist traps and spend some time in a more secluded island.
From our research, Koh Tarutao was what we were looking for.

As part of the Tarutao National Marine
Park, which consists of 51 islands of which Koh Tarutao is the
largest, the island is a true sanctuary for marine and land wildlife.
Accommodations on the island  are limited.  The park authority does
offer bungalows and campsites for overnight stays.  The
accommodations are basic but comfortable, only offer cold water and
electricity to power lights and fans is available only between 6 PM
and 10 PM.  The park authority has a restaurant that offers a limited
menu but with tasty options.

Unfortunately, indoor activities are
non-existent as we found out the first day we arrived and it was
raining.  If you plan to come to Tarutao make sure to have a deck of
playing cards, a few good books and a few Sudoku puzzles with you
just in case you run into some bad weather.

Thankfully, the weather cleared the
following day and we were able to enjoy some of what the island has
to offer.  First, we visited the Crocodile Cave.  The cave can be
reached by boat (about 15 minutes) and is a huge cave with stalactite
and stalagmite formations.  The cave does not have any crocodiles
anymore but does have thousands of bats.  As we took a small raft
into the cave, we passed and woke some of the bats that hung
upside-down above on the cave walls.  After docking the raft, our
non-English speaking boat driver led us by foot into the cave.  The
formations were beautiful but similar to any other formations that
you would see in such caves.  What was different was that we were
lead through some questionable passages.  The visit turned out to be
a real hike that often required us to be on all fours to climb some
of the muddy ascents.  We all came out unscathed but very muddy.

The following day we took a hike to
visit a few of the other ‘Ao’ (beaches) on the island.  A hike
of 8 km took us to Ao Jak, Ao Molae and Ao Son.  The beaches were
beautiful and completely empty.  Not a soul!  But we enjoyed the trek
getting there even more.  As we walked, we came within feet of
monkeys and even a two foot long lizard sun bathing on the path.  The
jungle we were walking in was full of life.  Even when we were unable
to see them, we could hear the different creatures all around us.

At Ao Son, a small jungle path led to
the Lu Du waterfall.  According to the park authority, the 3 km trek
from the beach to the waterfall takes 1 hour.  Having just finished
lunch, we were energized for the 6 km return journey.  It was getting
a bit late so we decided to arrange for a lift back to our bungalow
after we finished the waterfall hike.  We agreed to meet a park
ranger at 4.30 PM near Ao Son and he would drive us back. We left the
beach at about 2:30 PM and started off at a good pace.  I was sure
that we would make it to the falls well before one hour.  Was I ever
wrong!  As it turns out, the path to the falls is only a quarter
‘path’ and three quarters ‘rock climbing’.  Most of our ‘walk’ was
over wet rocks on the riverbed and we had a lot of difficulty finding
some of the markers along the way.  After an hour and 10 minutes we
were considering turning back or we would be late to meet up with the
park ranger.  Luckily we continued and after the next bend in the
river we saw the tiny waterfalls.  Sunset was about 2 hours away and
the jungle’s thick canopy was already making it quite dark.  We
quickly cooled ourselves in the waterfall and headed back.  We were
determined to make the trip back in less than an hour.
Unfortunately, our wet feet and sandals made walking even more
difficult than before.  Only 20 minutes into the return journey, we
lost sight of the trail markers.  We were lost!  We headed down the
river thinking that we would find a marker at some
point but as it
got darker we realized that we didn’t recognize the stretch of river
we were on.  The rocks on the river bed were larger, harder to climb
and fallen trees were blocking the way.  We decided that backtracking
to the last marker that we had seen was the smartest option.  That
was a wise choice.  We had missed one of the markers that led up from
the river to a path higher up on the bank.  At this point, it was
quickly getting dark and we started jogging!  We made it out at about
5 PM and luckily the park ranger was still waiting for us.
Exhausted, thirsty and grateful to be in the ranger’s truck, we
headed back.

Unless you love nature and solitude
this place is not for you.  After 9 PM when the restaurant shuts
down, there is not much to do other than sit on your bungalow’s
balcony and play cards or read a book.  Of course, any activities
after 10 PM also require candles or flashlights!

But for nature lovers the island offers
treks to see secluded beaches, waterfalls, various caves and a chance
to see different types of wild animals including monkeys, wild pigs,
tropical birds, reptiles, squirrels and many types of insects.  The
ocean and jungle are your playground here! 

Details:

Park Name:  Mu Ko Turatao Marine
National Park
Getting There: Ferry or speedboat from
Pak Bara on the mainland (250/300 Baht)
Admissions Fee:  400 Baht for
foreigners
Accommodations:  Camping (20 Baht), newly built bungalows (1600 Baht) and a few options in between